If one wine typifies the current state of Australian chardonnay (complex, superfine, detailed and majestic) as much as a wine of place, Heytesbury could possibly be it. There’s a lot of fruit power this vintage, yet still, a tightly coiled style in youth. A millefeuille of flavour – grapefruit, lemon salt, white nectarine and complex savoury nuances, the oak and lees folded into the wine. There’s an intriguing zinc character too, a little flinty and funky with mouth-watering acidity. Moreish and compelling all the way through. Mesmerising. JH
A bright yet creamy entry is supported by a beautifully taut line of acidity and incredible palate structure. An enticing pop of samphire complements the mineral, saline core, leading to a long, rich and dry finish with lingering hints of savoury beeswax.