The 2023 Isolation Ridge Riesling has a peculiar nose—unexpected, at least—and leads with cheesecloth and amber, preserved lemon rind/yellow grapefruit and damp cedar wood. In the mouth, the wine is far more on track, imbued with searing acidity and precise tension through the finish. The wine is tightly coiled, springy and laden with jasmine tea, although it errs to the tea convalescing at the bottom of the pot. It is concentrated, a little bitter and floral. RP