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The winemaking investment in the pinot noir has been substantial. Maker Sam Middleton eschews the common regional recipe of whole-bunches, instead maximizing whole berries. These are extracted judiciously with pump-overs and plunging, a sure way to avoid soft, hollow wines. The defining factor of these pinots is the lack of obvious fruit, Middleton’s aim. This is my type of ideology, with riffs on root spice, damson, quince paste and griotte, that sweet cherry scent seldom found in pinot outside of great Burgundy. A stunning pinot. I may be underscoring it. JS
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Mount Mary Pinot Noir 2019
From a strong vintage, this has trademark earthy aromas, as well as blueberries, forest wood and some sappy red cherries. The palate has a very composed, layered and long band of ripe, fine tannin, supported by fresh acidity that elevates the blueberry, cherry and red-plum flavors. JS
$ 928
Mount Mary Pinot Noir 2020
Plenty of sweet strawberries with sandalwood and dried flower aromas that follow through to a medium body with fine, rounded tannins and a juicy finish. Orange peel and cedar at the end. JS
$ 928
Pichon Longueville Baron Pauillac 2eme Cru 2009