Often nudging the top cuvees, yet a bit more understated in terms of its make-up, if not a little more effusive of its pithy, gingery stone fruit and rooibos exclamations. As reliant on a chewy rail of phenolics as obvious freshness, this is very good and strongly suggestive of great southern Rhone expressions. JH
Whole berries, basket-pressed to French oak, 5% new, wild ferment and 7 months on lees. While there's a whisper of nashi pears, daikon, camomile, fennel and white pepper, this runs on a savoury track with fine acidity keeping it from ever becoming too big. Lovely drink. JH