Given all that, weaker sites would produce something weedy and astringent. Not this. Sure, it’s stemmy with bitter herbs, but it’s also superbly integrated because at its heart is excellent fruit, all sweet and tangy. A little smokiness comes through, aniseed, almost pastis-like, umami/Vegemite and oak spices with raw silk tannins sashaying across the fuller-bodied palate. There’s a density and richness but it’s not weighty. Whole-bunch junkies will be stoked. JH
Yarra Yering Dry Red Wine No. 2 2018 (Screw Cap) (2022 Winery of the Year, Halliday Wine Companion Awards)
JH
95
A complex and layered wine; sweet and savoury all at once. The fragrance is melting pot of violets, plums, savoury spices and a whiff of bramble. Moderate in weight; the plum fruits come in all colours dialling up the flavour interest. There is cigar box and cardamom spice lending intrigue.