The deepest and most complex expression of chardonnay at Penfolds, this has a dual edge, between white peaches and yellow citrus fruit. The palate is rigidly dry with such precise acidity placement and a very long, sorbet-like edge to the clean, hazelnut-dusted finish. JS
The phenolics frame a powerful core of fruit that is at once streamlined and wide. It blankets the mouth and persists long after the wine is gone. At this stage, it feels inchoate in its development: tiny fish hooks of texture and a frisky sort of acid line both indicate that the wine has some time to go before it fully realizes its potential. This is forever the blue-chip investment in this collection for my taste, and there is a perpetually seamless cohesion of malolactic fermentation into the wine. RP
$ 1,118
Penfolds Yattarna 2023
RP
97
WS
94
JH
98
JS
97
A wonderfully filigreed Yattarna. This release shows all the finesse that we've come to expect from the wine, with pure white peach, juicy nectarine, citrus and apple fruit tones. Hints of soft spice, hazelnut and meadow flowers. A light whisper of flint, creamy oak, oatmeal and biscuity tones meld together beautifully. The tension and interplay between fruit and sapid minerality is fascinating, with supple fruit flowing forth – all pure, mealy and complex. There's a slow glutamic ache of umami as it fades away with a sustained and enduring finish. A stunning, graceful wine, and one that is at the peak of its game. JH
$ 1,118
Penfolds Yattarna Chardonnay 2018 (2022 White Wine of the Year, Halliday Wine Companion Awards)
RP
93₊
JH
99
JS
96
A blend of Tasmania, Tumbarumba and Adelaide Hills fruit, this has an intense, stony and mineral freshness with a flinty edge and a wealth of lemon sherbet, white peaches and crushed stones on the nose. Oak is deeply buried. The palate has such striking and intense depth. It’s layered and long and really asserts itself as the most complex and most powerful chardonnay in this release. The depth and pristine grade of fruit here are impressive. Deep, pithy finish. JS